16 june / 1 july 05
"Uhm... I don't know what you want to do, but all I can see in there is a couple of goats..." It is 4am, and still dark, as we reach the Nepal-India border, supposedly opened 24 hours a day. But when Mike gets to the immigration office, he can only see 4 bright eyes staring back at him, and they don't look like they belong to the immigration officer. Never mind, we knock on the door until someone finally wakes up. Rubbing his eyes, our officer pushes the 2 goats aside, turns a light on, grabs our passports, stamps them and sends us on our merry way... We have left Nepal behind. On the other side, we also wake the Indian authorities up (what happened to this open 24 hour a day business?), and it is in their pyjamas that the 2 officers go through the formalities with us.
On the other side, the border town is barely waking up. But we are already taken by the smells and the crowds... It seems we have left a bit of peace and quiet behind. Time for breakfast and we are en route to Delhi. And for the first time, we actually fear for our lives on the roads. Indian traffic is mad, dangerous, noisy, stressfull, unruly, and totally devout of regards to cyclists... Enjoy the ride!